The Row's show was held on the 35th floor of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe's masterpiece, the Seagram Building. All of midtown—sunlit, crisp, and Presidents' Day quiet—was visible from the floor-to-ceiling windows, and that was fitting. This was Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen's New Yorkiest show ever: businesslike in predominantly black and white, where their more colorful Pre-Fall collection had its eye on the beach; and somewhat more serious-minded with straight-up, unfettered pantsuits in place of the tunics and cropped pants they showed just a month ago. It can't be a coincidence that the Olsens have just signed a lease on an East 71st Street town house. Their first Manhattan flagship is expected to open before the end of 2015, right about the time these clothes will be in stores.
All that isn't to suggest that The Row customer has become a corporate raider overnight. Yes, there was a newfound austerity to the tailoring, spare to the point of plainness if not for the superfine materials, but she's still gliding through life, wearing skimmy Moroccan slippers over sheer black hose, and clutching a croc gym bag to her chest. No briefcase for this power woman. Beyond the suiting, the Olsens found ways to fold in elements of softness and seduction. Wide leather belts that knotted twice at the back added definition to the waistline of kimono-style jackets (the butterscotch crocodile version was an Instagram hit) and an ivory silk robe belted loosely at the hip, ready to spill open if the instinct arose. It's with sensual details like those that the Olsens distinguish themselves from fashion's other purveyors of luxe minimalism. No one but no one could say no to one of their chunky ribbed cashmere sweaters.
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