This winter in New York, called one of the coldest in recent years: there are now about -10 degrees Celsius. So what with what dedication fashionable guest impressions still refuse to wear thick tights and outdoor clothing, is downright admiration. However, these brave girls to the fifth day fashion marathon has become much smaller. Now almost all prudently wrapped in a colorful coats and hide in huge sheepskin coats, and we are surprised at how little among the heroes of the new street style-chronicles Russian girls. Oh, they do, and not accustomed to such frost, it could show people the real class.
FASHION-KANT
Feb 17, 2015
The Row 2015 nyfw
The Row's show was held on the 35th floor of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe's masterpiece, the Seagram Building. All of midtown—sunlit, crisp, and Presidents' Day quiet—was visible from the floor-to-ceiling windows, and that was fitting. This was Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen's New Yorkiest show ever: businesslike in predominantly black and white, where their more colorful Pre-Fall collection had its eye on the beach; and somewhat more serious-minded with straight-up, unfettered pantsuits in place of the tunics and cropped pants they showed just a month ago. It can't be a coincidence that the Olsens have just signed a lease on an East 71st Street town house. Their first Manhattan flagship is expected to open before the end of 2015, right about the time these clothes will be in stores.
All that isn't to suggest that The Row customer has become a corporate raider overnight. Yes, there was a newfound austerity to the tailoring, spare to the point of plainness if not for the superfine materials, but she's still gliding through life, wearing skimmy Moroccan slippers over sheer black hose, and clutching a croc gym bag to her chest. No briefcase for this power woman. Beyond the suiting, the Olsens found ways to fold in elements of softness and seduction. Wide leather belts that knotted twice at the back added definition to the waistline of kimono-style jackets (the butterscotch crocodile version was an Instagram hit) and an ivory silk robe belted loosely at the hip, ready to spill open if the instinct arose. It's with sensual details like those that the Olsens distinguish themselves from fashion's other purveyors of luxe minimalism. No one but no one could say no to one of their chunky ribbed cashmere sweaters.
Zac Posen 2015 nyfw
Half the point of a Zac Posen show is the spectacle. This time around he took over Grand Central's grand Vanderbilt Hall (thankfully, on a holiday, or imagine the commuter outrage), then added an appearance by a positively ladylike-looking Rihanna (where's the fun in that?). The show closed with Posen and Naomi Campbell doing their best prom king and queen walk up and down the entire length of the runway. It was a little bit like watching an amusing movie about fashion.
Except that somewhere amongst all that, there were some pretty good-looking clothes that showed Posen is thinking about the business and the red carpet. "I draped most of the clothes myself on the weekends, so it's very personal," he said preshow, possibly referring to the hours he keeps at his other gig as creative director at Brooks Brothers. "I wanted to find a balance between the elegance of Grace Kelly and the fierceness of Chaka Khan," he said. So, glamour meets attitude? There was that in a cinched plum fur chubby and pencil skirt; a dandified cashmere coat, cardigan, and bonded trouser; or a snug secretary-style sweater tucked into a sequined skirt. There were also a ton of wearable day looks: swingy jersey dresses in black, plum, and orange, and those skinny pants that, if you can fit into them, make legs look perfect. And the gowns—these were obviously primed for Oscar season, especially a beautifully simple cinched column with vertical green bugle beading, and a minimalist-leaning teal jersey gown worn under a gray cashmere coat. Before the show, Posen sounded proud that he only did one ball gown, and rightfully so. Even though it was worn by the never-aging Campbell, its glitz and volume felt out of step with the lovely gowns that preceded.
Feb 16, 2015
Tommy Hilfiger 2015 nyfw
Tommy Hilfiger started his namesake company in 1985. It's been three decades since he famously erected a billboard in Times Square declaring that "T.H."—an unknown entity at the time—was one of the four "great American designers," alongside R.L., C.K., and P.E. (You can guess who those other initials belong to.)
Gutsy, sure. But the stunt not only helped to establish Hilfiger in the traditional sense—as in, it introduced him to the shopping public—it also set the bar for how much he was willing to put himself out there. In the past 30 years, Hilfiger has ridden the wave of designer stardom, sometimes expertly, sometimes not, but always with a certain admirable confidence. Maybe that's because he has been unfailing in his love of Americana in its many, many guises. To kick off his 30th anniversary celebration, he created a Fall collection inspired equally by American football and Love Story. "I wanted to marry sport with luxury," Hilfiger said at his showroom as the film played on a flat screen in the lobby.
He staged the show at the Park Avenue Armory, which was transformed into a football stadium, with a Jumbotron capturing the fashion plays as models walked the AstroTurf runway in Ali MacGraw-inspired '70s-prep silhouettes. They were wearing faux-fur stadium jackets with red-stitched toggles, wool cashmere ponchos, and several looks in bouclé plaid. The jacket of a shorts suit, for instance, was decorated with a knitted striped collar. Those athletic stripes added a sporty detail to just about every item, many of which were decorated with little pins and stars reminiscent of 1940s football paraphernalia. Even the truly novel pieces, like a plaid-lined leather stadium poncho worn by Southern California model Gigi Hadid, was more modern-optimistic than crazy-kitschy. The It thing, though, will be the football-lace boots. A showpiece that has the potential to be a closet favorite, they were made for the pages of a sports-themed editorial.
For Hilfiger, this was just the beginning of a year of celebration. He's currently in the midst of writing his memoir, taking stock of the brand's history. "When I started designing this collection, I took all the inspiration from everything I loved, from sports to music to the outdoors to iconic women," he said. "I've always wanted to make what was cool back then and make it relevant for today." This season, he stuck to his word
Carolina Herrera 2015 nyfw
"I don't do years," Carolina Herrera said before her show, explaining that she doesn't like looking to the past for inspiration these days. "I'm trying to go to the future." The designer, who turned 76 last month, becomes less conventional as time accumulates. She had fun last season with flowers, which she treated in artful, unexpected ways, and so she's sticking with the natural world for Fall. Her idea was to explore water, and her approach was both literal and abstract.
As a rule, the more loosely she treated the theme, the more successful she was. By day that meant a Prince of Wales dress with a wave of needle-punched mohair drifting across its front was a more convincing option than a cashmere jacket featuring embroidered swans. Strip away the swoosh of red acrylic embroidery on a softly constructed coat and what would've remained was a divinely soft mohair fabric in a subtle houndstooth and chevron pattern. By night, the ripple-print silk organzas and jacquards Herrera used on cocktail dresses and gowns erred similarly on the emphatic side. A long, wool felt dress in ivory with curving seams tracing across the chest was subtler and more elegant for it. And the same held true for a strapless gown in icy blue silk gazar with undulating flounces below the knee. The most forward-leaning look, an ivory techno jersey top accompanied by a long blue bias-cut skirt with a single ruffle rippling down the side, wasn't really about embellishments at all. The modernity was in the efficiency and glamour of its cut.
NYFW 2015 street style
We will not soon be able to get from distant shelves favorite summer dresses and sandals, but by daily street style-view photos from New York we are, admittedly, more particularly about this and did not regret. In the end, began pancake week, which means that spring is very, very soon. And it is better to enjoy the last month when you can show off in bright knitted cap, wrapped from head to toe in a huge warm scarf and experiment with multi-layered, so that even in the winter does not freeze in your favorite demi coat.
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